Review: The Engleside Inn

Fresh fish is Long Beach Island's culinary heart and soul, but forget having to choose between traditional seafood fare and trendier sushi. At The Engleside Inn in Beach Haven, you can have jumbo lump crab cakes with a side of a blue crab roll.

Classically trained sushi chefs allow the restaurant to provide two perspectives to feasting on fish while the family atmosphere keeps things friendly.

"The inn's been open for 43 years, and I¹ve been working here since high school," explained Peter Hillman, owner of The Engleside Inn. "We serve an eclectic mix of seafood in an upscale, casual atmosphere."

All the dishes are executed with an elegance that is mimicked in the atmosphere. The Leeward Room, which is steps from the beach, is paneled in rich wood with chic chairs in warm tones. Flickering candles at each table add romance, making The Engleside Inn an ideal location to celebrate a special occasion.

For a more relaxed, fresh-off-the-beach atmosphere, the Inn's Sand Bar offers poolside or patio seating as well as a casual, yet tempting menu. Such favorites as burgers, buffalo wings and chicken sandwiches are supplemented by havarti cheese and tomato panini, grilled tuna tacos and fresh mozzarella salad. And, since it is always five o'clock somewhere, a variety of daiquiris, margaritas and house specialty drinks can easily get the party started.

Two separate menus

I visited the Leeward Room at dinnertime with a friend and was impressed by the elegant and warm atmosphere tucked away inside the beachy exterior of the inn. There are two separate menus, one for entrees and one for the sushi bar, but the Japanese influence deliciously sneaks into many of the seafood entrees. Creations such as the Miso-sake Roasted Chilean Sea Bass served with grilled asparagus, jasmine rice, ginger vinaigrette and a citrus emulsion can completely blow other seafood restaurants out of the water.

But even the landlubber can enjoy the Asian touch with dishes such as ginger glazed chicken breast, served with stir-fried vegetables, jasmine rice and a sesame soy vinaigrette.

You can savor local seafood through the shrimp cocktail appetizer, which is poached in court bouillon, or the exotic crispy fried tiger prawns, which come in a Thai chili sauce. I chose the classic fried calamari ($8.50), which came with a dashing pesto aioli that completely debunks marinara as the reigning sauce of choice. It was tangy and creamy, yet had an earthy taste from the fresh basil. The calamari rings were delicately battered and fried, with fresh squeezed lemon perfectly cutting through the richness.

The blackened fish of the day ($25.95) is served with plum tomatoes, roasted garlic and basil over angel hair pasta. Tuna and salmon are always offered but I chose the tuna, which was delivered as black as a steak on the outside, but blushingly pink and tender on the inside. The herb crust was packed with flavor without being overly thick, which complemented the more subtle and organic flavor of the angel hair. The tuna steak teetered over the swirled together angel hair, which was settled down in a thin sauce infused with the roasted garlic and wilted basil.

My guest opted for the grilled marinated chicken ($19.95) served with whipped potatoes, grilled vegetables and an herb au jus. The chef proved to be just as capable at precisely grilling chicken as he was at tuna. The twin chicken breasts were picture-perfect ‹ checkered grill marks on the outside, yet moist and tender to the very core. My friend adored the dark green, fragrant au jus as well as the mashed potatoes, which were well-seasoned without masking the natural, earthiness of the potato.

All entrees are served with a choice of soup or salad; I chose the New England clam chowder and my friend the house salad. The clam chowder was thick and spicy, with generous hunks of potato and clam making it incredibly hearty. I had to exert monumental self-control to keep from finishing the cup or risk being too full for my entree. The house salad was a much lighter option and appropriately simple.

The desserts

Despite our bulging stomachs, there¹s nothing two girlfriends enjoy more than dessert and so we greedily demanded the menu.

The classic offerings of cheesecake, creme brulee, sorbets and a variety of coffees add to the fine dining experience. I chose the molten lava chocolate cake ($7.75) with burnt sugar ice cream but I was not prepared for how decadent and beautiful it was. In one corner of a square glass plate was a perfectly round little fudge cake, oozing with thick dark chocolate inside. In another corner was a puffy cloud of whipped cream topped with a sprig of mint; in another, fresh slices of strawberries; and in another, a neat scoop of cream colored ice cream, swirled through with brown, crystallized sugar. The ice cream was similar to a creme brulee in that it paired smooth, creamy ice cream with the crunch of burnt sugar, and it was equally delicious.

The Engleside Inn offers classic fine dining but also adds an extra kick of Japanese influences. It¹s a restaurant elegant and traditional enough to please the pickiest eater as well as creative and tempting enough to tantalize the trendiest eater.

(Photo credit: Shawn Huber)

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