Review: Dutchman's Brauhaus

For the lover of brats, beer and bay views, the Dutchman's Brauhaus in Manahawkin will serve up satisfaction with authentic German style. However, you can leave your lederhosen at home as this restaurant and bar maintains a casual island atmosphere, complete with views of Barnegat Bay.

It manages to highlight the easily recognizable elements of German culture -- with cuckoo clocks and beer posters adorning the walls -- without forgetting that its pilings are set right into Cedar Bonnet Island, just past the causeway bridge. While German cuisine may not be as familiar as Italian- or Mexican-influenced cuisine, this restaurant feels anything but foreign; the bar area features a vintage jukebox stocked with such American favorites as Frank Sinatra and The Beach Boys as well as classic arcade games.

The restaurant's rich history likewise contributes to the comfortable ambience.

"The restaurant has been here since 1952 and was originally established by the Schmid family," Douglas Campbell, the dining room manager, explained. "It started off as a small bar in the parking lot but the storm of '62 took its toll. The existing building was built in '63, and the Schmid family still owns it."

American fare, too

A comfortable balance between Germany and the Jersey Shore is flawlessly carried through to the menu, which tempts you to try its knockwurst while also boasting of its signature crab cakes. In fact, the menu offers separate sections of cuisine, one of Deutsches Essen, or German house specialties, and another of Amerikanisch Essen, or American fare. You can entice your palate with the Wiener Schnitzel a la Dutchman's, which is a sautéed veal cutlet with mushrooms and a rich demi-glaze, or opt for a reliable favorite, such as the New York strip steak served with sautéed mushrooms and crispy onions. Either way, your tastebuds will thank you.

As gorgeous as every summer sunset is, it's especially enjoyable over a heaping plate of sausages and sauerkraut. I was lucky to be seated at a table directly under the large windows surrounding the main dining room and was a happy spectator of the dramatic pinks and purples settling over the bay. It is definitely a spot worth requesting on a summer evening.

For an appetizer I decided to be adventurous and order the most Germanic-sounding option: the Konigsberger Klopse. Although an apology was in order for my butchered pronunciation, it was well-worth the effort. The Konigsberger Klopse is German-style veal and pork meatballs piled on a dish of thick, rich-brown gravy. However, these meatballs bear almost no resemblance to those found on an Italian sub. They are smaller and juicier, as they are sautéed in brandy with capers so that the flavors permeate to the very center. Each little bite is as abundant with meaty flavor as a whole steak would be. The extra gravy in the dish paired excellently with sesame rolls, so that the dish was nearly wiped clean by the time the entrées arrived.

I was feeling ambitious (as well as indecisive) and so I ordered the Dutchman¹s Haus Plate, which essentially is a sampler of all the classic German menu items. After all, why have one type of sausage when I could have two and a smoked pork chop? Not only that, but the plate was topped with a giant salty pretzel, which looked like a crown of German authenticity over the knockwurst and bratwurst. Each plump sausage was intensely rich, which paired perfectly with the doughiness of the pretzel. The pork chop had an
appetizing smokiness, yet was moist and tender. Generous heaps of shredded red cabbage and sauerkraut accompanied the meat so that the entire dish could easily have fed two.

My guest ordered the more basic knockwurst plate, which paired the strong meatiness of the sausage with smooth, buttery mashed potatoes. And to add a little kick of sweetness to the other rich flavors was a liberal portion of caraway apple sauerkraut. Of course, all of this hearty food is best washed down with some authentic German drafts and so my guest ordered a stein of Dortmunder beer. The bar boasts five beers on draft, three of which are German as well as 15 varieties of imported and domestic bottled beer. The
restaurant even offers signature steins that diners can purchase to enjoy at home.

Coffee and dessert

The Dutchman's Brauhaus likewise offers variety in its coffee selection -- you can order Irish, Jamaican, German, Italian or Dutch coffee to accompany your dessert pick. The dessert menu features apple strudel baked on premises, German chocolate cake, and key lime pie, as well as other tempting favorites. I chose a molten lava cake, served with a giant scoop of vanilla ice cream. The cake was circular and spongy on the outside, which concealed an oozing, warm chocolate core. It was a classic blend of warm, rich
chocolate with cold, creamy vanilla ice cream and therefore a guaranteed crowd pleaser.

The restaurant is successful in that it brings German cuisine to life in an accessible way -- staying true to authentic dishes while also offering well-known favorites. Combine that with the fresh seafood and stunning bay views that Long Beach Island boasts, and the Dutchman's is a sure bet.

Try the scallop provencale at the Dutchman's Brauhaus in Manahawkin. (Photo by Bryan Ferreira)

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