Review: Copper Fish in Cape May

When it comes to seafood at the Jersey Shore, a restaurant attempting anything out of the ordinary better do it right.

Copper Fish in Cape May thinks outside the box with its menu, and the results are appetizing and memorable.

Compared to its behemoth neighbor The Lobster House, Copper Fish is quaint and quiet, from its parking lot to its dining area. Once inside the BYOB restaurant, you'll find framed black-and-white Shore-themed photos on the walls and, in keeping with the ocean theme, white boat-style chairs (they're quite comfortable, by the way) at each of the dark, wooden tables.

Copper Fish dares to be different not only with its entrees but with its appetizers and salads as well. Grilled chicken Caesar salad can be had just about anywhere, but Copper Fish serves a grilled Caesar salad -- warm lettuce piled high on a square plate with a parmesan crisp at the top and in the middle of the heap. The lack of typical Caesar coolness is a bit jarring at first, but after a few bites, the taste trumps the temperature.

The Copper Fish menu changes all the time largely because, as one friendly, outgoing waiter enthusiastically explained, the chef orders fish from three different places.

On this particular Thursday night in mid-September, the one-page menu included barramundi, which can be found in the waters around Australia. It also included waloo, a must-try tropical fish that is meaty both in its texture and taste.

For the unadventurous, Copper Fish also has chicken and beef as well as more common seafood options, including a sizable salmon entree that comes with fluffy mashed potatoes. The "big ass" scallops live up to their name: Not only are they big, but they're not the least bit gritty.

The service was a bit haphazard: Only two waiters were on duty, yet they seemed calm and hustled throughout their shift. At one point during the night, the water glasses essentially refilled themselves when the ice melted before a waiter stopped by to pour another round. The time between the end of the meal and the check's arrival also took longer than it should have.

Those are minor faults that can be tolerated, and chances are they're not the norm. If there's one thing Copper Fish should address, it's the choice of music played in the dining room. Classic rock hits are more suitable for a chain restaurant or a diner, not a savvy seafood restaurant that stands out in a town filled with quality options. The Copper Fish menu is eclectic and stylish, and it makes perfect sense for the background music to reflect that.

Copper Fish photo by Chris M. Junior

Add a comment