Review: Antoinetta's

At Pirate's Pointe Marina lies a hidden treasure of a restaurant, complete with sweeping views of Manahawkin Bay, an equally dazzling interior and inspired cuisine.

It's Antoinetta's, which is accessible by boat or a winding road that suddenly opens up to 360-degree views of swaying marsh grasses, the shimmering bay and, if you're lucky, a summer sunset.

Once inside, a lavish and elegant atmosphere lures you to a table like a siren singing you to shipwreck. But instead of destruction, you'll find satisfaction in the continental creations of chef Richard Diemer.

"Rich comes out with some crazy dishes that are incredible," explained Fernando Messercola, who, along with his brothers, owns Antoinetta's.

Antonietta's is largely family-run: Messercola's son Justin and nephew Gino work outside, docking boats for customers. His father does much of the handiwork, while his mother is the namesake behind it all.

The restaurant is located within the Edwin B. Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge and, with an I BOAT NJ state grant, the Messercolas were able to renovate the surrounding marina. They are now working with another grant to create a nesting area for diamondback terrapin turtles, which are native to the area.

The menu itself is as limitless and refreshing as the landscape, with American, French, Italian and Asian influences meshing to produce unique and sophisticated dishes. Diemer uses high-quality, classic ingredients in edgy ways, such as in the duck quesadillas ($10), which feature duck, hoisin sauce, scallions, shiitake mushrooms and lime creme fraiche wrapped in a crispy tortilla.

I visited Antonietta's with a close friend in the early evening and, as much as I was marveling at the picturesque setting, I couldn't miss the elegant building. The doors open onto a spacious entryway. Upstairs, every window boasted the beautiful pinks and purples of a sunset over the bay.

Appetizer options

The appetizer menu offers such local seafood classics as a trio of jumbo lump crabcakes ($12) with truffled root vegetable slaw and mixed greens as well as classic lobster bisque ($8). However, I was tempted away by the multitude of delicacies offered by the Tuscan antipasto for two ($16).

We were presented with a rectangular, spotlessly white plate with heaped up little rows of bruschetta, sopressata, fresh mozzarella, roasted red peppers, kalamata olives and chunks of Grana Padano cheese. Each element hits a different part of your palate, but all are so traditionally Italian they taste even better in any combination imaginable. Pair the sopressata, which is a spicy Italian salami, with a bite-size ball of fresh mozzarella and an olive. Or try the Grana Padano, which is a hard, salty cheese, with a sliver of soft, slightly sweet roasted red pepper.

My entree, the grilled swordfish medallions with angel hair ($27), was completely different from any other seafood or pasta dishes I've had -- it came in a green olive broth that was tangy without being heavy. The swordfish came stacked over a layer of garlic-braised broccoli rabe, which was stacked over a neatly gathered pile of angel hair pasta. Dotting this mountain were halved cherry tomatoes, ripe and juicy, and slices of salty green olives. The swordfish itself was almost unbelievably moist, yet fully cooked, with perfect grill marks striping each pale medallion. The flavors and scents of all the ingredients melded together to create a uniquely aromatic and bright dish.

My guest went the more Italian route, choosing the mezza rigatoni with organic chicken ($26). It came in a rich cream sauce accented by truffles and English peas so that the overall effect was earthy and smooth. The wide, ridged tubes of the mezza rigatoni held the sauce perfectly while the mushrooms and peas added texture.

The dessert menu offers many tempting choices: chocolate gateau cake with vanilla gelato, bread pudding and creme brulee. I choose the creme brulee and it, like many of the other dishes at Antoinetta¹s, had an extra twist to it. Made from vanilla beans, it still manages to surprise with a kick of citrus mixed into the custard. The crystallized sugar top was a deep brown that concealed the velvety, ivory creme inside, all of which was contained in a generously-sized oval coffee cup.

The dessert menu can serve as an ideal example of Antoinetta¹s greatest appeal -- using high-quality ingredients to transform familiar dishes into a creative and delectable meal. And at a close second are the natural beauty of the wildlife reserve and the sophisticated beauty of the restaurant itself.

Photo by Doug Hood

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