Review: Pisces Seafood

(Credit: Christopher Seiz)

Seafood isn't hard to come by on the Shore. Fish markets, shrimp shacks, lobster houses: they're a dime a dozen.

But a restaurant that serves well-conceived, well-prepared fresh fish dishes that don't come at exorbitant prices isn't necessarily easy to find. Pisces Seafood, a small market and restaurant in the Bay Shore section of Toms River, fits the bill.

The restaurant is small, with only a dozen or so tables, and the décor is cheery and simple. Old photos of local landmarks, businesses and beachy vistas decorate the walls and recall the restaurant's origins -- it's been around since the '70s -- and the chairs and tables are serviceable and simple.

The fresh fish market takes up one corner of the place, and reminds you that what's on your plate is about as fresh as it gets. And man, you can tell.

Our server, friendly and professional, promptly brought out warm bread and a plate of shaved parmesan and herbs as an accompaniment. She was quick to offer menu suggestions, and our first courses came without much delay.

Our buffalo calamari arrived in a cloud of deliciously spicy steam. The tender squid rings were not at all rubbery, with only a touch of breading and just the right amount of sauce. A dollop of chunky bleu cheese, and the only thing that stopped me from ordering another round and making a meal of them was the next course, a rich, fragrant lobster bisque that proved to be a worthy follow-up.

Our main courses -- crab cakes and seared tuna -- were on par with the rest of the meal, though we hardly had enough room to finish half of the enormous plates.

The tuna arrived just as ordered: rare, with a warm outside and a pink, sushi-cool center. Black sesame seeds and a generous helping of seaweed salad made for great accompaniments.

The crab cakes didn't incorporate the delectable giant lumps of meat I always hope for. Still, all the elements were well-balanced, making for a juicy, flavorful cake without too much filler.

Both entrees came with a choice of a baked potato, fries or a potato croquette, a giant serving of mashed-and-then-fried spud. We both chose the croquette, and weren't disappointed. It's a comfort food fantasy that you'll find yourself craving later.

We somewhat sheepishly asked for doggie bags for our heaps of leftovers -- enough for another meal, at least -- and were met with a cheerful "no problem." It probably happens a lot.

On some points, Pisces' atmosphere seems to waver between down-home casual and fine dining. Some of the dishes were served on plain and practical diner-style dishware, others on fancy, hand-glazed pieces, and the menu items ranged from unabashedly informal bar fare to upscale offerings.

But the satisfying and well-executed dishes never failed to please, and the prices meant dinner for two can easily come in below $50.

The friendly chef and part-owner, who leaned over an open counter to chat as we finished our meal, told us most of Pisces' patrons are repeat customers. Not surprising to us. This is seafood worth coming  back for.