Princeton's Underground Cafe and Restaurant

The "ultimate shish kabob dessert" -- deep-fried pieces of brownies and cheesecake, served with a plate of fruit drizzled with chocolate sauce -- can be had at the Underground Cafe and Restaurant in Princeton.
(Credit: Adam Mandelbaum)

It may be off the beaten path from a culinary standpoint, but the Underground Café and Restaurant, which specializes in Eastern European food, is right in the heart of downtown Princeton and just a block away from Princeton University.

The Underground Café was created by Assen Tchongov, a professional soccer player from Bulgaria. His father owns and operates five restaurants in Bulgaria, yet despite this background, Tchongov had some hurdles to overcome when he opened the Underground Café in November 2005.

For one, he had to get used to the fast-paced style of American diners who want to be in and out of a restaurant in an hour, as opposed to Europeans, who tend to spend an entire night at a restaurant.

Tchongov also had the challenge of getting people to try an unfamiliar cuisine.

"At first, people were very skeptical about it," Tchongov said.  "They didn't want to try Eastern European food.  They didn't know what to expect."

Those who do visit the BYOB restaurant are in store for an exotic, carefully prepared meal made with high-quality ingredients.

"We only use fresh meat and vegetables," Tchongov said. "My suppliers are very surprised that I don't order frozen stuff."

Traditional Bulgarian appetizers
The Underground Café offers such traditional Bulgarian appetizers as shopska salad, a mix of tomatoes, cucumbers, scallions, peppers, olive oil, fresh herbs and feta cheese.  Other choices include chicken paprikas soup and tsatsiki salad, which is like the classic Greek gyro sauce, only thicker and with the addition of walnuts.

Then there is something called Bulgarian hot rocks. This entrée features a choice of cooked meat served alongside an assortment of vegetables on a large, dish-shaped stone.  The meat and vegetables are coated in a flavorful sauce that still sizzles long after the meal is brought to the table.

Those who are less adventurous will be pleased to learn that the menu also includes such Italian standards as chicken piccata and penne alla vodka as well as many other European specialties. As for desserts, one the highlights is the aptly named ultimate shish kabob dessert. This consists of pieces of deep-fried brownies and cheesecake on a skewer, dangling above a plate of fresh fruit.

The food at the Underground Café is beautifully presented on an assortment of uniquely shaped dishes. The décor is just as eye-catching: There are glass steps leading down to the dining room, green-tinted, cracked glass tables and a long, sweeping bar, giving the interior a very modern, futuristic look.

Tchongov hopes to one day sign a contract with a New Jersey winery and serve only Jersey wine. For now, though, he is focusing on providing good food and pleasing his patrons.

"No matter how my day went, if a customer tells me they had an amazing experience, that just makes me happy," he said.