Oyster heaven

Scallop risotto (Credit: Bob Bielk / Asbury Park Press)

Bistro 14

Boasting a view that overlooks the Barnegat Bay, Beach...

If you like oysters, Bistro 14 is the place to be. That’s what, more and more, the restaurant located in Bay Village is becoming known for — a wide selection of regional oysters, served with a variety of sauces to try, all part of what some call the best raw bar on Long Beach Island.

“We’re really becoming known for our raw bar,” said Richard Vaughan, co-owner and chef — especially the oysters. “People come and try the different styles and flavors of oysters available.”

With no liquor license and an empty half-moon bar, they decided to open a raw bar and it has been a huge success.

If you’re like me and not especially fond of oysters, raw or otherwise, the Bistro still has plenty to enjoy, from generous seafood offerings and their popular hanger steak, to delicious pasta options for dinner, with salads, baskets and sandwiches served for lunch. Their seafood specialties include four types of fish available to be prepared in any one of six different ways, allowing guests to try their favorite in a different style each time they visit.

Since the raw bar is such a central part of the place, I didn’t want to miss out on the experience, so I ventured to try something a little more up my alley — crab. The crab claw cocktail, for me mostly sans cocktail sauce, was unexpectedly tasty and left a pleasant flavor in my mouth as we awaited our main course.

Following much deliberation and multiple questions, answered quite competently by our waiter (who was also quite considerate and conscientious of our preferences and allergies), I opted for the scallop risotto, which the menu told me took quickly seared day boat scallops and served them with saffron tomato broth over herbed risotto. I was unsure how my taste buds would react to saffron, but one bite and I knew I was drawn to it for a reason. The huge scallops possessed a smooth texture and nice flavor by themselves, only enhanced by the gentle saffron spice.

The views from our elevated outside perch accompanied the meal quite well. As the excitement of Memorial Day wound down, the sun seemed to follow, filtering through the clouds and drawing light pinks and blues over the bay.

Conversations of those stretching their holiday to the fullest could be heard from below, indicating that for a quieter meal, an inside table is best, although a more complete Island experience could only be had from the balcony deck.

To round out the meal , a variety of homemade desserts are available for $7 each. I took a flourless chocolate torte to go (the dinner was quite filling), and found it to be truly just this side of fudge, as the description reads. Other choices include creme brulee, chocolate croissant bread pudding, lemon tart, profiteroles, fruit tart and a cheese plate, as well as ice cream, gelato and sorbet for $5 each.

With all the satisfaction I got out of my meal and experience at Bistro 14, it was interesting to learn that Vaughan and his wife, Karen, went into the restaurant business somewhat blindly, learning along the way.

“We learned the restaurant business the old school, hard knock way,” he said. “We’ve worked hard but it isn’t really hard work,” as it involves going to different restaurants and sampling their foods, using the “best ideas from the best restaurants.”

The two have certainly been successful that way, starting out running Great Bay Seafood for 10 years. When they had the opportunity to move into Bay Village, they took it, and changed the old mooring location into Bistro 14 six years ago.

“We enjoy food and have always enjoyed cooking,” he said. “It’s very interesting and very fun, (and) it’s been satisfying.”
Bistro 14 is currently open 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. for lunch and 5-10 p.m. for dinner on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, until Father’s Day weekend, when they will be open seven days a week through the summer months. They are also available for catering.